Siena in Italy. Where a Medieval Street Horse Race is Run Twice a Year.

Siena, a small town situated in the Tuscan region of Italy is a rustic and historic town where a remarkable horse race is held twice a year on July 2 and August 16. Most Italians enjoy the their annual holidays in the month of August so crowds who watch the race are well and truly in holiday mode.

Horseracing, they say, is the sport of royalty and there are some horse races that are known more for their history and winners than for any actual races. One such race is ‘The Melbourne Cup’ held in Australia every year in November. This particular race stops the nation as everyone in Australia is watching the race at 3pm wondering if this is the year they’re going to win. A large percentage of Australians will bet on 'The Cup', even if they never bet any other time of the year.

In another part of the World, Siena, a very different horse race stops a whole region in Northern Italy. ‘The Palio’, known as 'Il Palio di Siena', is a horse race where 10 different 'contrade*' (or suburbs) compete in a race around the town piazza with no saddles, no rules, and often, the horses finish the race minus their jockey. This is what makes the Palio so different to the Melbourne Cup, which is run on a proper racing track and the jockeys follow horse racing rules.

The Palio consists of 10 riders in regal costumes who represent 10 of the 17 'contrade' of the region. The whole region is in party mode as they hold the 'Corteo Storico' prior to the race. This is a colourful pageant which attracts many visitors, many of whom dress in the district colours to watch and cheer on the riders.

The race itself only lasts 90 seconds as the riders circle the piazza 3 times but with no rules much can, and does, happen in that short time.

* The contrade are the districts the town is made up of.

Where to Stay in Siena

Siena has many rustic-style accommodation such as hotels, B&B's as well as private homes that will suit any budget. We didn't stay in Siena we drove there for the day from a villa in Donnini, Villa Pitiana (see my hub, Enjoy a True Tuscan Experience, for more information about this beautiful restored villa).

Many of the smaller towns in the Tuscan region of Italy have farm-stay accommodation as well. The choice is only limited by your imagination and what type of Tuscan adventure you are looking for.

If you are planning to stay in Siena to watch The Palio I suggest you book well in advance as July/August are the busiest months for holiday makers in Italy.

The Palio dates back to the 15th Century when the Grand Duke of Tuscany outlawed bullfighting and the contrade began organising races in the piazza. In medieval Siena the July 2nd race was the only one held every year, it was known as the 'Palio di Provenzano', and still is known as this today.

The second race held on August 16, known as 'Palio dell' Assunta' was not held every year until the early 1700's when the city took over the funding of this race as opposed to being left to the winning contrada, whose funds may not have covered two races.

As in medieval times, the 10 contrade chosen to race are made up of 7 that didn't race the previous year and the remaining 3 are chosen through a ballot. Competition between the 17 contrade is fierce and even more so between the 10 that actually race. Also, as with any horse race, there are the favourites.

Each contrada has its own government, coat of arms, emblem and colours as well as their own marked territories making the Palio a historical tradition with differences between the districts vehemently fought during the race.

Italy has many 'festas' and celebrations during the year, most are to celebrate a saint or some other religious connotation. These celebrations are always colourful, full of fun, food and processions. The processions tend to be long and wind through the towns' streets with most of the town's inhabitants taking part.

'Il Palio di Siena' is just one of many traditional festivals held in Italy and, in fact, much of Europe. For instance, Spain has the 'Tomatina' festival - where over-ripe tomatoes are eagerly thrown and the crazy, 'Running of the Bulls', where people try to outrun bulls in the town streets. The Palio is almost tame compared to the 'bulls'.

If you ever have a chance to visit Europe, August is the best time of the year to experience one of these types of festivals and processions, it's holiday time and everyone is ready to party and play dress ups.

Siena, as with many rustic towns throughout Italy, has many historical landmarks including the Piazza del Campo. When you do visit Siena take your time and walk the streets off the piazza to discover magnificent restaurants and shops with goods from the region including Tuscan wines and vinegars.

There are many wine tours conducted throughout the region as well as wine schools and cooking classes using fresh produce from the region. One of the famous wineries in the area is the 'Castello di Brolio' owned by the Ricasoli family since 1141.

You can visit the Siena Cathedral, named Il Duomo, a gothic style church with an elaborate exterior, considered one of the most beautiful churches in Italy. This Cathedral is also known as 'Catedralle di Santa Maria'.

If you are feeling energetic there are many organised walking tours which will take in Siena and its surrounding districts.